Skin care for aging skin: Minimizing age spots, wrinkles, and undereye bags
- Reviewed by Rebecca Gaffney, MD, Editorial Advisory Board Member, Harvard Health Publishing
Aging is a natural part of life, and over time it brings changes to our skin. Many people notice age spots, fine lines, and bags under their eyes as they grow older. While we can't stop the clock, we can take steps to maintain healthier, more youthful skin. From daily skin care routines to targeted treatments, there are many ways to address age-related skin concerns.
How does your skin change as you get older?
As we grow older, our skin undergoes several changes. Collagen and elastin, two proteins that keep skin firm and stretchy, start to break down, leading to wrinkles and sagging. Oil glands produce less oil, which can make your skin feel dry and rough. Our skin also becomes thinner and more delicate, making it more vulnerable to damage.
Aging skin can also lose some of its youthful glow because the process of shedding old skin, known as skin cell turnover, slows down. Additionally, exposure to sunlight over the years can lead to age spots and uneven pigmentation. These changes are natural, but certain lifestyle choices, such as protecting skin from the sun, not smoking, and following a good skin care routine, can help slow down the process.
How to care for aging skin
Caring for aging skin means focusing on hydration, sun protection, and gentle treatments. Here are some tips to help maintain healthy, vibrant skin.
- Cleanse gently: Use a mild cleanser once daily to remove dirt and oil without stripping your skin of its natural moisture. Avoid harsh soaps, which can be too drying.
- Moisturize regularly: As skin gets drier with age, applying a moisturizer can help keep it hydrated and smooth. Apply a fragrance-free moisturizer daily after showering, and whenever your skin feels dry. A moisturizer containing hyaluronic acid or glycerin can be particularly beneficial.
- Use sunscreen every day: Sun protection is one of the most important steps for slowing skin aging. Ultraviolet (UV) exposure accelerates the breakdown of collagen and elastin. It also causes DNA damage that may lead to skin cancer. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every morning, even on cloudy days and in the winter.
- Add antioxidants: Skin care products with antioxidants like vitamin C can help protect skin from environmental damage. Vitamin C protects the skin from damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules that break down skin cells. It helps brighten the skin, even out skin tone, and reduce the appearance of dark spots by inhibiting excess pigment production.
- Exfoliate gently:Exfoliating once or twice a week can remove dead skin cells and help your skin look more refreshed. For anti-aging benefits, chemical exfoliation (using topical products applied to your skin) is a better option than physical exfoliation (such as using a loofa or textured washcloth). Retinoids, alpha and beta hydroxy acids, and salicylic acid are all chemical exfoliants. Take care to use exfoliants as described in the directions. Applying too much or more often than indicated can lead to raw, irritated skin.
Age spots
The medical term for an age spot is solar lentigo. They are also called liver spots or sun spots. These are flat brown, black, or gray spots that often appear on areas exposed to the sun, like the face, hands, and shoulders. They are common in people over age 50, but younger people can get them with enough sun exposure.
While age spots are harmless, they can be a cosmetic concern for some people. Here are a few options to reduce their appearance.
- Topical products: Creams and lotions with ingredients like hydroquinone, retinoid, or vitamin C can help fade age spots over time. Look for products labeled "brightening" or "spot corrector" and only apply as directed. Topical medications that contain higher strengths of these ingredients can be prescribed by a dermatologist.
- Chemical peels: A dermatologist or other licensed professional can apply a chemical solution containing topical alpha-hydroxy acids, tricholoroacetic acid, or glycolic or lactic acid to the skin. Chemical peels remove the top layer of the skin, reducing the appearance of age spots.
- Laser treatments: Laser therapy targets pigmented cells, helping to fade age spots. This is a more intense option and may require several sessions. Lasers should be cautiously used for people with very dark skin tones, and are unsuitable for those with certain skin conditions, pregnant women, and people who are prone to scarring. If you have a history of cold sores (herpes simplex) on the treatment area, you may need to avoid or take extra precautions with laser treatments.
Age spots that have any irregularities, including changes in shape, color, and size, should be evaluated because these can be signs of skin cancer.
Wrinkles
Wrinkles are lines and creases that form in the skin, usually around the eyes, mouth, and forehead. They develop as the skin loses elasticity, and can deepen with repeated facial expressions, sun exposure, and gravity.
Retinoids are one of the most effective options for wrinkles. "Retinoids" refers to a range of vitamin A-based skin care products. They boost collagen, improve skin thickness, and smooth the outer layer of the skin. Retinoids such as tretinoin (Retin-A) and tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac) are available by prescription. Topical products containing retinol or retinal, which are types of retinoids, are widely available in over-the-counter products.
Treatment options used for age spots, including lasers and chemical peels (see above), can also be helpful for wrinkles. A few more invasive treatment options include:
- Neuromodulators: Neuromodulator injections like botulinum toxin (Botox) temporarily relax certain muscles in the face to smooth out wrinkles and lines. They work by blocking signals from the nerves to the muscles, which stops the muscles from contracting as much. This helps reduce wrinkles caused by facial expressions; the effects last about three to six months.
- Soft tissue fillers: Fillers such as hyaluronic acid gels are injected into targeted areas of the face to smooth out wrinkles and restore fullness in areas like the cheeks and lips. Results are immediate and can last from six months to two years.
- Microneedling: This procedure uses tiny needles to create small injuries in the skin. This encourages collagen production and can help smooth facial wrinkles.
Discuss potential risks associated with these treatment options with your dermatologist or other licensed clinician.
Crow's feet
Crow's feet are the fine lines that develop around the outer corners of the eyes. Because the skin around the eyes is thin, it's often one of the first areas to show signs of aging.
Treatment options for crow's feet are the same as those for wrinkles. Lifestyle choices also impact when crow's feet appear and how deep wrinkles become. Some factors to consider:
- Sun exposure and sunscreen: In addition to daily sunscreen, wear sunglasses or hats to protect your eyes from UV rays. This also reduces squinting, which helps prevent crow's feet.
- Managing stress: Emotions like anger, sadness, and anxiety lead to facial expressions that contribute to crow's feet. Learning to manage stress can reduce these fine lines and wrinkles.
- Smoking: Need another reason to quit? Smoking accelerates the development of crow's feet by reducing blood flow to the skin and breaking down collagen and elastin.
Undereye bags
Undereye bags, or dark circles, refer to skin darkening, puffiness, or swelling under the eyes, which can make you look tired. This common concern is usually caused by weakened muscles and tissues around the eyes. Other factors, such as lack of sleep, genetics, and fluid retention, can make undereye bags more noticeable.
Options for addressing undereye bags range from simple makeup to hide them, to fillers and skin resurfacing, or even surgery for more severe cases.
Here are some tips to reduce the appearance undereye bags:
- Keep it cool: Applying a cold compress to your undereye area can temporarily reduce puffiness.
- Use an eye cream with caffeine: Topical caffeine can help reduce dark circles under the eyes by addressing swelling and discoloration from leaky blood vessels. Studies show that caffeine gels can penetrate the skin and improve puffiness and pigmentation around the lower eyelid.
- Give peptides a try: Peptides, which are found in many eye creams, are often used to reduce dark circles. They work in different ways: some stimulate collagen and elastin, while others block enzymes that break down skin structure, and carrier peptides deliver nutrients that help repair and strengthen the skin.
- Sleep on your back: Sleeping on your back with your head slightly elevated may help prevent fluid buildup around the eyes, reduce puffiness, and lessen the appearance of dark circles.
About the Author
Jennifer Fisher, MMSc, PA-C, Health Writer
About the Reviewer
Rebecca Gaffney, MD, Editorial Advisory Board Member, Harvard Health Publishing
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