Menopause marketing: Hype vs. truth

photo of a mature woman reading the label on a skin care product in a drugstore

Nestled just inches apart in the cosmetics section of a big-box retailer are two little pots of night cream, both made by the same manufacturer. One label is magenta, the other teal. "Wake up to skin that looks refreshed and less tired," promises the magenta version, labeled "menopause skin care." Meanwhile, the teal-clad "advanced overnight cream" — presumably meant for everyone else — pledges that "fine lines and wrinkles [will] appear visibly reduced."

A closer look reveals both night creams contain nearly identical active ingredients. But the menopause edition costs $5 more for the same amount — 25% more than the standard anti-aging version. So what's the real difference? Aside from labeling and price, not much — meaning skin care brands may be quietly fleecing women at a vulnerable point, when worries over changing looks and vitality merge with hot flashes and hide-and-seek periods.

"If you're taking virtually the same product, changing the label's colors and wording to make it more appealing to midlife women, and selling it at a higher price, that's predatory," says Dr. Jan Shifren, director of the Midlife Women's Health Center at Harvard-affiliated Massachusetts General Hospital.

"A brand could just be putting a 'menopause' label on a product when a lot of these products contain the same tried-and-true ingredients that are anti-aging for everyone," agrees Dr. Arianne Shadi Kourosh, a dermatologist at Massachusetts General. "There could be hype in the labeling."

Major spending power

It's no mystery why a plethora of "menopause skin care" products have popped up on store shelves in recent years. The trend coincides with a wave of aging women who may feel flush with extra cash as they burn their mortgages and finish paying children's college tuition. Nearly 63 million American women were 50 or older in 2021 — roughly 20% of the U.S. population — and older adults are projected to outnumber children for the first time in U. S. history in 2034, according to the U.S. Census Bureau.

So, while anti-aging lotions and potions have been marketed for decades, the $49 billion beauty industry now sees dollar signs in midlife women at the height of their earning and buying potential, Dr. Shifren says. Women over 50 boast a combined spending power of $15 trillion and control 95% of household purchasing decisions, according to AARP.

"We're living longer, we're aging better, we're healthier, and we're wealthier," Dr. Shifren says. "Everyone has realized midlife women are a large group of consumers with money to spare, and it's caught the attention of these product makers."

"But midlife women need to know they're a target now," she adds. "We have to stay in a state of 'buyer beware,' or companies will try to take advantage of us."

What does "clean beauty" really mean?

Are you more tempted to buy a beauty product if it claims to be clean? The notion of "clean beauty," ironically, is quite murky, a Harvard dermatologist says.

Consumers expect clean beauty products — part of a $7 billion global market that encompasses everything from lotions and soaps to hair care and makeup — to be free of harmful substances. But the "clean" moniker denotes nothing about the purity of the ingredients, says Dr. Arianne Shadi Kourosh, a dermatologist at Massachusetts General Hospital.

"There is no legal or official definition of clean beauty," Dr. Kourosh says. "It's a term that's been used and misused by marketers from every section of the industry to the point where it has no meaning anymore."

The clean beauty movement came of age in recent years in parallel with "clean eating," but the latter has far more substance. "Clean eating has more structure to it, because people are trying to eat whole foods that are unprocessed and don't come in boxes," she says. "That's a little clearer."

Some beauty products claim they're "clean" when they're merely fragrance-free or hypoallergenic. But even fragrance-free products can contain pleasantly scented preservatives that legally skirt that definition. Other labels declare an item is "vegan," "cruelty-free," or "green." But while those individual claims might pass muster, often marketers are attempting to gain favor with various interest groups, Dr. Kourosh says.

"They're appealing to people's identity politics, using their sensibilities to sell products when the product isn't held to any standards," she add. "There's no accountability, because the FDA doesn't regulate skin care products."

If you're clear-eyed but still interested in what clean beauty products can offer you, drill down on what you're seeking — whether it's something hypoallergenic, for example, or sourced in an environmentally conscious way. "You need to be clear on your goals first," she says, "then do your research and consult with a dermatologist to get an idea of the ingredients you're looking for behind these nebulous and meaningless labels."

Menopause skin basics

Staying ahead of potentially deceptive skin care marketing first requires understanding what happens to women's skin as we age. As the largest organ, the skin joins virtually every other body part in chronicling the effects of falling estrogen levels as menopause approaches.

Estrogen fuels the production of oil and other substances that moisturize and protect the skin. When levels drop, skin can't hold moisture as effectively, leading to dryness, dullness, and irritation. Estrogen decline also coincides with diminishing production of collagen, a type of protein that makes skin firmer.

Beyond that, many women in perimenopause and beyond develop new or worsening cases of rosacea, a chronic inflammatory skin condition marked by redness and rashes that usually arise on the nose and cheeks, Dr. Kourosh says. Why now? Because flushing related to hot flashes causes tiny blood vessels in the face to dilate or makes redness more obvious.

But over-the-counter skin creams typically can't make a big dent in rosacea symptoms, she says — only medications or in-office procedures such as laser treatments can. "Skin care is only going to take you so far," she notes.

This is also true for anti-aging products in general, since most of the changes our face registers over decades — wrinkles and sagging among them — are treatable but not preventable. "We can slow it down, but not stop it," Dr. Kourosh says. "Some of these forces are going to happen no matter what. Working with a trusted dermatologist through the process can help women navigate it more smoothly."

Beneficial ingredients

Nothing will turn back the clock. But certain active ingredients in beauty products can confront aging skin's biggest nemeses:

Broad-spectrum sunscreen is a product in its own right but also is incorporated into many moisturizers and foundations. Sun exposure speeds up chronological skin aging and leads to age spots.
Alpha-hydroxy acids exfoliate dead skin cells and reveal smoother skin underneath.
Retinols and retinoids are forms of vitamin A. They ramp up skin cell turnover, combating fine lines and sun damage.
Hyaluronic acid draws water to the skin and "traps" it in cells to retain moisture.
Ceramides strengthen the skin's barrier to keep moisture from escaping.
Moisturizers improve skin's smoothness, softness, and flexibility. Common individual ingredients include glycerin, shea butter, aloe vera, and various natural oils such as coconut, sunflower seed, jojoba, tea tree, and grapeseed.

While using these ingredients can't hurt, don't expect menopause miracles — no matter what a label says, Dr. Kourosh says. Unlike medications, the FDA doesn't approve over-the-counter skin care products before they're sold.

"I'm not aware of skin care products that are going to be game changers for the problems of menopause," she says. "They may help a little bit, but they contain the same anti-aging ingredients that people use throughout adulthood. And while certain skin care products, like retinols and moisturizers, can be helpful, they're not necessarily going to do the trick for everyone."

Caveat emptor

If you're perusing skin care shelves and considering "menopause skin care" products, Harvard experts offer two main pieces of advice:

Cast a critical eye. Examine the product's ingredients rather than its claims. Does it contain something different from what you're already using? "Until someone proves that the needs of midlife women's skin are different and designs a product that meets those needs in a different way than for younger women — and no one has done that, to the best of my knowledge — you should probably stick with products you used in the past and not pay more for the same thing," Dr. Shifren says. "If you found a moisturizing cream that worked well for a long time, there's no reason to now buy one whose label says it's perfect for menopause."

Get back to basics. Including skin care in your self-care regimen is fine. But nothing is better for maintaining your skin and overall vitality than getting adequate sleep, staying hydrated, and working with a dermatologist to target your individual needs, Dr. Kourosh says.